Lisbon neighborhoods

Running between the Restauradores metro station just north of the Estação do Rossio and the Marquês de Pombal metro station, the Avenida da Liberdade is Lisbon's "Grand Boulevard." Lined with pricey shops, monstrous modern office buildings, and restaurants, it is a broad and impressive boulevard, quite grand in spots. Architecturally newer than Baixa (and older than Saldanha) the Avenida is a major artery. As a general rule, the farther you walk from the river along Avenida da Liberdade, the more modern it becomes. Nearby you'll find the lovely Botanical Gardens.

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To the west of Baixa, the Bairro Alto twists up a mountain, Its moody, evocative streets are bordered by steep stairways and winding alleys. The Bairro Alto is desperately beautiful, with its organic mixture of the hip, rustic, and picturesque. Fairly recently reborn as a trendy 'hood, the Bairro Alto is crowded at night thanks to hot clubs, bars, and restaurants. Between Bairro Alto and Baixa is the sloping neighborhood of Chiado. Full of cafes, museums, pricey boutiques, and theatres, Chiado is the sophisticated older sibling of Bairro Alto. It's not quite as stunningly, edgily gorgeous as Bairro Alto, but it's still charming in its more ordered way.

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The grid-shaped Baixa neighborhood was completely rebuilt following Lisbon’s devastating 1755 earthquake. Today the area functions as the city's chief shopping area, offering everything from boutiques to tourist traps. Two large streets, rua Augusta and rua de Santa Justa, are pedestrian-only thoroughfares. Baixa is an easy jumping-off point for seeing the rest of the city. Praça Rossio, sitting at the top of Baixa, is the city's most active square. At the base of Baixa is the Praça do Comércio, a square of wide arcades adjacent to the river.

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To the East of Baixa, Alfama, Lisbon's castle district, sits perched above the Baixa. The Castelo de São Jorge is its crowning glory. The castle, crumbling in places, affords magnificent views of the river and the old city. Having survived the earthquake of 1755, the district is charmingly chaotic, with commercial pockets of restaurants and shops, hillside alleyways, little parks, and broad views over the river. Tremendous views can be glimpsed in between the steep streets sloping down toward the river. The winding, cramped alleys toward the base of the Alfama are especially enticing.

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Located at the top of Avenida da Liberdade, the Praça Marquês de Pombal is one of the city's major traffic thoroughfares. As you move further northeast toward Praça do Duque de Saldanha, it is still possible to see traces of 19th-century architecture, but this area is mostly characterized by late 20th-century, concrete creations: multi-storied hotels, office buildings, and shopping malls. This neighborhood offers a glimpse into the everyday lives of most Lisbon residents. Close by are the Museu Calouste Gulbekian and the leafy Parque Eduardo VII. The former maintains an awe-inspiringly broad collection, while the latter is a staid public park with some great views. Marquês de Pombal & Saldanha are a 15 to 20 minute walk to the top of Baixa and a short subway ride from the center of old Lisbon.

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